The chic, dark interiors of 400 Gradi, at The Avenues Bahrain, open up to a picturesque view of Bahrain Bay. The ambience echoes the principle of its founder chef Johnny Di Francesco’s take on food – understated but impactful. The open kitchen houses two large wood-fired ovens, made to his specifications. He is a scientist in the kitchen, I’m told. My stomach rumbled in anticipation.
It wasn’t long before Insalata Caprese made an entry. The key elements are roundels of buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes. But when you bite in to the moistest mozzarella flown in from Italy along with the intense flavour of deep-hued Black Russian tomatoes, topped with a touch of Neapolitan olive oil and seasoning, regard for the seemingly simple plate goes up many notches.
Next came Polpette Al Sugo – succulent meatballs that sit in Napoli sauce, with a side of airy, toasty bread. The oozing, golden cheese from the risotto-shelled Arancini makes the palate salivate with pure joy. But what made me exclaim “Mama Mia!” was the Gamberi Fritte. I am yet to have such tender, juicy prawns coated in an almost translucent golden crust that goes ‘crunch’ when the fork pierces it. Dressed salad leaves and toasted almond flakes lend the dish a fresh earthiness, complemented by the artichoke and parsley puree it is plated on. The hint of cayenne pepper adds a teensy amount of fire to the mouth.
If there’s one thing that you must sample at 400 Gradi, it is the Margherita Verace. This deceptively simple creation from chef Johnny’s repertoire shone brightest at the Pizza World Championship in 2014. Take a bite – the proof is in the pizza. The dough, made to his scientific method, is yielding and easy on the roof of the mouth – thin at the base, puffing up brilliantly at the cornicione. Sauce made with the best San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte cheese and fresh basil is all else it takes for this gastronomic wonder to make you want more.
Moving on, Agnello Al Forno, which is braised shoulder of lamb, needed just a delicate prod to obligingly separate into succulent morsels. The slight bitterness of sautéed silver beet, sweetness of the onion and tart tomatoes made it a perfect round-up of flavours. Spagettini was silken pasta drenched in a lobster bisque base with pieces of crab, lobster, cherry tomatoes and courgette discs – a seafood lover’s dream.
The aroma of the Risotto Al Funghi Misti reached us a few seconds before the dish arrived. Not your stodgy rice preparation, this one. Five types of mushroom in a creamy sauce topped with Parmesan lent their unique taste and texture to the rice cooked to just the right level of al dente.
The handcrafted pillows in Gnocchi Al Pomodoro coated in a full-bodied Napoli sauce were topped with fresh ricotta and verdant basil. This conjured up images of cosy cafés alongside cobbled streets and lush vineyards – my mind had already made an imaginary trip around the Mediterranean by this time.
Cleansing the palate with jaw-droppingly flavourful sorbets – mango, raspberry and lemon – is highly recommended. Semifreddo Al Caramelo Arachidi Salati was a fine trapeze act between the sweet semifreddo, dark chocolate ganache, crumbly honeycomb and raspberries. The Tortino Al Cioccolato is an artfully made fondant, with a beckoning, runny centre. There is an assortment of gelato to choose from – I will be partial to the salted caramel and pistachio on my next visit.
With a food philosophy that revolves around using the finest ingredients to serve up uncomplicated dishes long remembered for their remarkable taste, Bahrain is lucky to have 400 Gradi on home turf.
