Balayage, a French word meaning ‘to sweep’ or ‘to paint’, is the name of a highlighting technique involving brush strokes of colour being painted onto the hair. From Gisele Bündchen and Alexa Chung to anyone wishing for natural-looking sun-kissed strands, the Balayage technique is fast becoming the hottest hair trend.
The first thing I learned on visiting Jacques Dessange in Adliya was that, despite its recent surge in popularity, Balayage has been around for a while. The technique was actually developed in the 1970s at the Dessange salon in Paris. At the time it was known as ‘Balayage a Coton’, referring to the cotton strips that are used to separate each strand during the highlighting process.
Although there are modern variations on this technique, the original principles remain the same, with an emphasis on a natural ‘just-come-back-from-vacation’ custom-made look. The open-air technique means that hair is no longer constrained (and, due to the build-up of heat, often over-processed) inside foil strips. Rather, the dye is painted on, allowing the stylist the freedom to follow the natural fall of the client’s hair and to complement their features, creating just the right amount of light around the face.
There are other tricks of the trade, too. The highlights, for example, tend to be softer at the root and thicker at the end of the hair. Furthermore, the colour is only applied to the surface of the hair as opposed to the whole section, creating natural built-in lowlights which further enhance the colour’s organic appeal.
The first thing Agnes, my stylist, did when I arrived was check out my hair. She inspected its length, texture, parting and natural folds. As she told me: “Every client is different. Every client has different needs.” Mine, unfortunately, were probably greater than most. The colour I’d been applying for years now — a tired-looking, DIY brassy blonde — lacked a certain… how to put it? Depth. The challenge, Agnes explained, was to create a natural multi-dimensional look with shades of blonde that would complement my skin tone. She decided on the classic California Balayage for the back of my hair, where it is darker, together with a flash Balayage at the front, allowing for some extra light pieces to brighten my features and frame my face.
After dampening my hair, Agnes separated it into strands before applying the ammonia-free paste. I didn’t speak to her during this process. I was reluctant to interrupt. She wore the same look of concentration I imagine Monet might have worn while painting his famous water lily scene, or his Morning at the Seine. Indeed, Balayage is more than just a highlighting technique. It’s an art form – which is why the stylists working at Dessange receive yearly training from instructors who come directly from Paris. The next session is due to take place in March.
I can’t remember how long I waited for the colour to take effect. Half an hour? Forty-five minutes? It didn’t matter. The paste, I was told, stops working as soon as it’s dry so there there is no risk of it being left on for too long and thus over-processing the hair. What’s more, I was enjoying the relaxation. As a mother of two boisterous kids, a trip to the salon is a rare event. And it’s got to be said, Dessange is particularly pleasant with its space and light and friendly staff who are quiet and unobtrusive, but always on hand if you need something.
By the time my hair was ready to be washed, my mood was charged and my expectations high. But I wasn’t disappointed. Au contraire! Even with my hair wet, I was able to discern a subtle melange of blonde strands with just the right amount of darkness pushing through. And, later, the overall impression after my hair had been styled was a thoroughly lighter, brighter and fresher look.
Before I left the salon, I asked Agnes when I’d have to come back. (Some of my foot-dragging regarding salon-based colour treatments is due to the high level of touch-ups they typically involve, and hence the cost.) But no, a further advantage of Balayage is its low maintenance. Because there are no obvious regrowth lines, the hair colour grows out naturally. Therefore, it’s possible to wait several months, or even longer, before even contemplating a touch-up.
Perfect!
Such are the positive effects of a good salon experience, I went home feeling 10 years younger and thoroughly recharged. I further confess that my trip to Dessange has changed me: my DIY days are over; I am, as they say, a Balayage convert.
And I am loving my new look.
