The Wizard of Veg

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Kostas Magoulas tasted success early in his career. He was chef de partie at acclaimed Athens restaurant, Hytra, when it was awarded a Michelin star. Determined and passionate, he quickly climbed the career ladder to become executive chef working on cruise liners and at hotels and restaurants across Greece.

A chance online collaboration with his present Bahraini partner brought him to the island. “We shared the same vision for providing the market with healthy food,” says Kostas. “Not many in the business take care of lactose- and gluten-intolerant people, or vegans and vegetarians. Seventy per cent of my repertoire is veggie-based. I simulate meat with plants and nuts.”

Together, they started Mylk & More, a small enterprise offering nut milks and cheeses, two years ago. “We quickly saw massive success. Our basic milks – almond, coconut, walnut, pistachio and cashew – were retailed to individuals and later to cafés to make nut milk lattes. We also offered customised options like almond vanilla, cashew milk salted caramel and our coconut cacao was a hit with kids. Some of our varieties catered well to Arabic tastes, like the pistachio, rose water and saffron or the iced gahwa latte. I’m also working on a coconut milk karak, using pure coconut sugar for taste.”

The beverages are home delivered in glass bottles with iron screw-tops, which are steam-sterilised and reused. “Worn-out lids are compressed and sent back to our supplier to recycle. Clients are very receptive of the process that involves zero plastic and waste, and they get a bottle of nut milk free for every six bottles that they return,” he explains.

Mylk & More also offers dairy-free, nut-based cheeses and spreads. “Parmesan is made from either cashew or coconut. The mozzarella spread, also made of cashew, can be used on pizza or pasta, and tastes just like the original. We use turmeric to naturally colour dairy-free cheddar, and there’s also a lemon-blueberry cheesecake sans any lactose or gluten.”

These product lines have seen a pause in production, as Kostas has diverted his attention to his other budding concepts, and will resume in the coming months. Mylk & More’s kombucha, however, is readily available. “This fermented beverage has many health benefits. Our production and storage techniques take care to ensure that there is no sugar or alcohol in the final product as a fallout of the fermentation process. It is available at Roots Café, Hamala, Bustani Café in Argan Village and Seed at Nakheel Centre, Saar, and Riffa,” he says.

Besides consulting for restaurants, giving cooking lessons and associating with local brands, Kostas is busy with The Forge, the healthy food truck in Hamala. He elaborates: “It is high-quality food with everything being made from scratch – from the sauces to the desserts. Our meat [when required] is sourced from the best of suppliers and is smoked in our classic 100-year-old stone oven. Our profit margins may be low, but we are committed to providing fresh, tasty and honest food that includes great vegan and vegetarian options. A regular cheeseburger elsewhere will give you around 700 calories, but mine will give you only 400.”

He has devised clever ways of making local and global favourites suitable for the mindful gourmet. “My version of spaghetti bolognaise, balaleet, radish greens and almond pesto, salmon nigiri, pulled jackfruit burger with ‘coco-slaw’, and beetroot kebabs will not leave you missing the meat,” he assures.

Kostas, who openly acknowledges his appreciation of meat, endorses a healthy equilibrium when it comes to eating it. “The problem is that we don’t know where to stop. Our ancestors ate it sparingly. Humans are programmed to sustain on a plant-based diet. Of course, I respect the universal food chain, but there has to be a logical balance. Reducing our meat intake keeps us healthier and serves to reduce our burden on the ecosystem, which is the need of the hour,” he says. “I came to Bahrain to be a pioneer, not a follower.” And it’s evident he is doing just that.

Follow Kostas on Instagram @chefkostasmagoulas and @mylknmore